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KIPASS Warning Buzzer

If you have ever walked away from your bike and accidently left the key on, you may want to consider doing the buzzer mod that Brian Felice first came up with. The buzzer activates anytime the headlights are on but the fuel pump is not running. With the KIPASS ignition system you get into the habit of not removing the key, and if you put the sidestand down with the bike in gear, the engine will shut down automatically. It is easy then to just walk away from the bike, and forget to shut off the key, and if you do, you will have a dead battery when you come back. One such event like this is enough to severely cripple your battery.

The way the buzzer works is that it gets positive DC power from the headlights when they are on, and gets grounded through the fuel pump. When the fuel pump is on, there is + 12 volts on it, so the buzzer won’t have a ground path. When the fuel pump is off, but the headlights are still on, the buzzer will have power from the headlights and will get grounded through the fuel pump windings. This way, the buzzer will sound anytime you shut off the engine using the kickstand or kill switch and forget to turn the key off, and act as a reminder for you.

Below is a small schematic of how I attached a $5 Radio Shack buzzer and a 50 cent diode to my bike using Brian's idea. I made a slight modification to his original circuit and attached it at the back of the bike at the relay box under the seat and I modified his design a bit so it only uses two connections to the wire harness instead of three.

The buzzer I used was Radio shack part # 273-0060 and the diode was a common IN4001.

Wiring Diragram

The center gray connector on the relay box at the rear of the seat is the one that contains the proper wires to connect to.


You could easily just strip off some insulation on the wires and piggyback the connections, however, I chose to remove the pins from the connector and solder tack small ribbon cable wires to the existing pins for a cleaner installation. This was a bit more work and required me to use a small jewelers screwdriver to lift up the lock mechanism on the connector so I could extract the pin. I then ran the new wire under the rubber waterproof seal and to the pin and carefully soldered it to the pin.  This is a bit more work and if you are not familiar with extracting pins from connectors, you might be better advised to simply strip off some insulation and piggyback connect to the two wires. Alternatively you could also use a Posi-Tap or similar connector to tap into the wires without having to solder and splice.

This picture shows both wires installed

In my diagram and photos I used a blue wire on the buzzers positive lead and a purple one on the negative, though the buzzer comes with Red (positive) and Black (negative) wires already on it, I just wanted to add a little more length to them. The diode should go on the negative lead in the polarity shown. This means the silver band on the diode should be on the side that goes to the connector on the relay box (see photo).

Here you see that the diode is installed on ground lead with band toward connector.

Releasing the lock on the connector so the pin can be extracted by lifting up on the tab inside the pin cavity with a suitable tool.
The small gauge wire runs under seal and piggybacks/ solders onto the connector pin
Install complete

Article By: Fred Harmon

Original October 2009

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