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Carb Removal

Here are the steps that I used to supplement Kawasaki's to the point section on carburetor removal.

1. Remove the gas tank.

2. Loosen the clamps holding the carbs to the intake manifold and push them towards the engine.

3. Pull the spring clamp on the air box side of the carbs back towards the air box.

4. Remove the large tube that goes from the air injection system to the air box.

5. Disconnect the choke cable.

6. Disconnect the vacuum and overflow tubes.

7. Loosen the lock nuts for the throttle cables.

8. Twist the carbs so that the front goes down and get them out of the boots.

9. Now push the carbs out towards the left hand side of the bike.

10. When they are about half way out you'll have full access to the throttle cables. Disconnect the front one.

11. Now get a tie wrap or twist tie. You need to open the throttle and tie the linkage open to make removal of the rear throttle cable easier.

12. Remove the rear throttle cable.

13. Slide the carbs the rest of the way out.

Installing them is the opposite of removal. When getting the carbs into place insert them into the intake manifold and then work on the more flexible boots from the air box.

For putting the air box boots back on I built a special tool. It is ~12 inches long, 1/2 inch wide and 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch thick. It is essentially an "L" shaped piece of metal. I bent the last 1/2 inch to form the bottom of the "L". Be sure that the ends are rounded and not sharp so that you don't accidentally poke a hole in the boot.

What I do with it is use the long strait side to push the bottom of the boot into place and work my way around the side. When I get to the top I used the bottom of the "L" to hook under the boot and pull it into place. This was a real time saver for me.

From COG Digest 4581 June 6, 2003

By Aulia Gies
Howdy ya'll.  I've been off-line for several months.  But after pulling my carbs to replace a cable plus shimming the needles I tried a new (to me) trick that works really great. 

I knew the airbox boots were stiff (17 yrs) so I got new ones. After fitting them to the airbox I peeled the leading edges back & held them in place with some big hose clamps.  They prolly would have stayed but why not make sure.  This gave me that 1/2" of space that made all the difference.  After getting the carbs on the engine, I removed the clamps & a quick flip of 1 finger popped the boot right onto the carb. Sweet. Maybe old boots will fold back either heated or soaked but it's worth a try.  

The new boots only ran about $35 and saved numerous skinned knuckles.

Also, based on a tip from Craig in Albuquerque I reset pilot screws to 1 1/2 turns (from 2) due to my 5000+' altitude.


Article By: David J. Morrow

Updated January 2005

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